Chrysler Reviews

This book is probally the most valuable tool you can own in your tool box. The manual covers not only full engine overhaul but also tune up procedures and general maintance.

The manual is laid out very well and allows those with little or no car experience to easily perform numerous tasks and trouble shoot problems they may have.

You can't go wrong at the price because even if you use it once it's more than paid for itself.

John Lee does a fantastic job in editing this important book for diehard Chrysler fans and collectors.In addition to a complete listing of all of the Chrysler Corporation products,there are also in-depth stories of these cars including Indy 500 pace cars. You'll be pleased with what this book has to offer.

The book is well written,very thorough,easy to understand for the beginner. One flaw though, is that it only covers standard rebuilds, and it does not go into the performance aspect at all which is where it loses out in the market, if you already have a sound foundation in rebuilding engines and already know the basics, you would be better served buying something like Mopar speed secrets or something along those lines.

All in all it is still a very good book.

by Paulzig@hotmail.com

This book seems good for PERFORMANCE rebuilds. But if you're just learning about rebuilding engines, follow the books advice, and start elsewhere. Here's a quote from the book's introduction: "[This book] was written with the performance enthusiast in mind, and contains large amounts of information generated by Chrysler's internal research and development engineers. This book was also written with the assumption that the reader is already familiar with general overhaul, disassembly and assembly practices, especially those peculiar to the Chrysler A engine. Complete standards and techniques for these engines in stock form can be found in HPBooks' HOW TO REBUILD YOUR SMALL-BLOCK MOPAR and in the Chrysler factory service manual for your particular engine. For factory manuals write: Chrysler Service Publications, 20026 Progress Drive, Strongville, Ohio, 44136. This book begins where those two books end--and that is on how to build a high-performance Chrysler small-block--very high-performance."

I'm not quite sure what other reviewers read, but this is not a book for standard rebuilds. This covers performance work only, and would not be a guide for the first-timer. It contains info on building up circle-track, drag, and street/strip cars, with general advice and specific part number and machining spec's. The book is written with a heavy factory-slant, as many of the parts and suggestions concern Mopar-sold parts. There's nothing wrong with that, as a lot of fast Chryslers run Mopar-brand equipment. The thank-you list in the front reads like a who's- who of Chrysler racing history, and some of them work at Chrysler to this day, so this isn't some guy out in left field telling you to slap a 800 CFM carb on your 1978 Lean Burn 318 and go Corvette hunting- he and his advisors know small block Chryslers better than almost anybody else I can think of. I've known or worked with several of them, and they've turned out an impressive pile of fast engines over the years. This book is well worth the $15 investment, considering the money you'll dump into a good motor

I have a '98 Cirrus with 2.5 engine. I bought the manual for guidance in changing spark plugs. The removal & installation section on page 1-39 and 1-40 only addresses the front 3 plugs. It is obvious by looking at the engine that something (the intake manifold plenum) must be removed in order to get to the back 3 plugs. By going to pages 3-23 & 3-24, the engine repair section, removal of the plenum is discribed. Is all of this necessary if the ultimate goal is just changing the plugs? Can the fuel line and the throttle body stay connected while the plenum is moved to one side? Maybe trial and error with provide the answer.

These manuals are a "must have" for me. I've always had one for all of my cars, and they've helped me with belts, radiators, electrical diagrams, alternators, suspensions, etc. The book pays for itself by letting you do it yourself instead of paying someone else.

I bought the book for help in changing the serpantine and power steering belts on my Sebring JXi. The instructions were very clear and the diagrams excellent. This is one of the better Chilton's manuals

I think the book is over priced. Finished it in two days. Interesting only from the standpoint that Chrysler was a pioneer on a few items. Since Mr. Breer died in 1960? the automotive technology has exploded, so many of his statements are now not relevant.

One of the trio of engineers that company founder Walter Chrysler dubbed his "three musketeers", Carl Breer offers an even-handed recounting of many of Chrysler Corporations's engineering triumphs.

He spares no detail when describing any of a number of Chrysler's firsts, from sorting out the mysteries of the carburettor to perfecting the Lockheed hydraulic braking system. He offers no apologies for Chrysler's biggest flop, the 1934 Airflow, instead highlighting the revolutionary advance it made in the area of the quality of ride for passengers. But he tends to gloss over the negative effect the car's styling had on sales, pausing only to criticize production for adding needless weight to the design. Perhaps the Airflow was just one of those times when the three musketeers won the swordfight at the risk of losing the castle.

There's a real feeling - more intense than in Walter Chrysler's own autobiography, or even in the just-released book by Robert Lutz - that Breer was one of the true pioneers in the automobile industry. Engineering detective work emerges as valuable history as he describes how various technical breakthroughs become possible after careful analysis of often conflicting customer comments and complex circumstantial evidence.

Included also is his fascinating eyewitness account of his trek as a young university student from Stanford in Palo Alto to the devastated city of San Francisco during the great earthquake of 1906.

This book is not light reading, but not only did it hold my interest, but I also find myself returning to it from time to time to refresh my memory of the steps taken in solving various engineering puzzles of the automotive age. For in these solutions one may find inspiration for resolution of technical challenges in any of a number of modern fields of endeavor.

I bought this book, hoping it would be the definitive Chrysler musclecar authority. Based on the number of pages in the book, it seemed a sure bet. I was disappointed. It did not cover the late '60s Barracudas as well as othe Mopar musclecars.

There are plenty of good reference pictures in this book for the scale auto enthusiast. The text gives a good history of Chrysler muscle, but the pictures are the tops - engine shots, good body shots, close-ups of unique features. Highly recommended for auto model builders.

This book is much better than vol. 1 (Dodge, Ply. and Chrysler Police Cars 1957 - 1978). That still doesn't say much, as the writing is elementary, repetitious and it's quite apparent that the author thinks that Chrysler never made a bad police car. I'd like some objectivity here. The info is there, you just have to hunt for it and make use of peculiar table formations (although again, at least there seems to be a modicum of uniformity in the tables versus the first volume). I had high hopes for this book, and I'm still waiting for an excellent book on police vehicles. I've yet to see one!

Vehicle information discribed in the book is accurate. Anybody that owns or wants to purchase these types of police cars would have the lowdown on the good and the bad in owning one these vehicles. Overall the book is interesting to read, though I would of liked to have seen some color photos along with the black and white photos.

Haynes manuals are far superior to anything else on the market for all around basic do-it-youself information. They are not perfect. Information on the majority of systems is more than adequate for basic home repairs, but while basic wiring diagrams are included, they do lack detail in the area of electronics. In contrast, Chilton manuals often include no chassis electrical or electronic information whatsoever and factory service manuals are very, very dry and can be hard for non-pro's to read.

It should be said, however, that these books are not for the neophyte car owner who has never done any repair work before. If you're an absolute beginner, buy the book AND find someone with good skills to shepherd you until you get the basics. This will save a lot of heartache in the long run.

The manual starts with an introduction to the models covered (All FWD models listed in the title, no AWD), tools required, safety advice and a brief trouble shooting guide. Then covers full strip down of engine,transmission, fuel, exhaust and electrical systems. Too brief chapter on body. The comprehensive diagrams and pictures are the strongest point of the Haynes manuals, and make them better than the far more expensive official workshop manuals as far as the average home mechanic is concerned. I have a V6 3.0 liter version, and can vouch for the manual for this model, the torque wrench settings, clearances etc. are accurate. No experience using it for the other engines. The manual does assume some experience for the major tasks like engine rebuilds, but assumes little or none in describing routine maintenance.

Save your money on Chilton. They do not hold near the information, clarity and in depth detail, thus VALUE, that Haynes Repair Manuals do.
Having said that, I would like to address some complaints I've come across about both Haynes and Chilton's Manuals.
1.) If your manual suggests at a point to seek professional input it is because MOST NON mechanics don't possess the skill or tools or shop equipment to perform a certain procedure (be it correctly or safely). The publishers' lawyer insisted on the "seek professional input" so as not to take on legal liability for an unqualified person attempting to perform a critical step in their car care. The reason is valid. You can injure yourself and damage your vehicle as well as render your vehicle unsafe to be on the road.
2.) Prior to purchasing a repair manual, LOOK THROUGH IT. Almost every auto parts store in America sells Haynes and / or Chilton's. If the particular manual you need doesn't have the plastic removed, look for a manual that does and look through the sections. CAUTION most auto supply stores will get mad and make you buy anything you rip open. They're trying to sell information contained in the manual, not give it away. Some copies are USUALLY open and can be looked at. Does the manual seem logical, good pictures? Thorough? Then CHANCES ARE that brand will be a good choice for your repair. Also READ the cover front & back thoroughly. It will tell you if special vehicles aren't covered (AWD, Alternate Fuel Vehicles, etc) Know what vehicle you have so you get the RIGHT manual. The correct year, make, model, engine size.
3.) If you do encounter a problem in the middle of a repair, it's possible that it is YOUR not doing something correctly. Not the tool, or the repair manual. Go away from the car, get lunch or a cold glass of lemonade, read through the manual. Even start again in the morning.
4.) As automobiles become more sophisticated, there is truly less and less that a vehicle owner can do him or herself. It is a fact, you will need to take your vehicle into a dealership or well equipped shop for more things. In addition, used oil and other fluids are difficult to dispose of. DO NOT THROW DOWN YOUR DRAIN OR BURY IN YOUR BACKYARD!!!. Tires, batteries all have special disposal needs.
5.) There are some people WHO ARE NOT MECHANICAL. Buy them books, audio / video equipment, ties for Christmas. NOT A WRENCH SET!
6.) Neither Haynes nor Chilton are Professional Shop Manuals (these are available for hundreds of dollars).

As for the particular manual for the Haynes (ISBN: 1563921324 ) Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager
and Chrysler Town & Country from years 1984 through 1995: This manual does NOT COVER All-Wheel Drive nor Alternative Fuel Models AND SAYS SO ON THE COVERS. You can even utilize Amazon "take a look inside" feature to check out if this manual is for you or not. .I checked it's description for changing wiper blades, oil and oil filters, air filters and general repairs and found it both accurate and easy to understand. I've been happy with Haynes manuals over the years and recommend all vehicle owners purchase one even if you don't expect to do any repair or service yourself. It
helps to know the information, to be aware of how your car works and to talk in a reasonably intelligent manner (on your part anyway) when you take your vehicle in for service.

I'm happy with this purchase. And have been with every Haynes manual I've bought and used in the last 20 years.
John Row

I agree with what Kalamazoo had to say, I have BOTH the Haynes book and the Chilton book. Compared to Haynes, Chilton isn't fit to tear apart and start the kindling with. Chilton is completely worthless as far as containing useful or accurate information or diagrams. I learned more from the owner's manual and underhood diagrams (which are pitiful in the Neon, BTW) than from the Chilton book. Believe me, that is the LAST time I'll ever be suckered into wasting my money on ANYTHIng by Chilton. I honestly don't know how they can stay in business with the dreck they pawn off on the public...Maybe they won't..

I've never even seen a Haynes manual in a parts store, and the one I did see at a friend's garage really didn't impress me.

Chilton has exploded diagrams and some good photos that really help with walking through most procedures. It's still the first thing I buy after acquiring a new (to me) set of wheels, along with all the usual and sundry tuneup parts.

However, I would suggest holding out on buying anything *new* from Chilton. In this day and age, you should be able to buy a CD/ book bundle for $(...). Furthermore, there should be more detailed exploded diagrams of parts and module assemblies, especially in complex processes like timing belt operations.

Specifically, adjusting a window is a fairly simple operation, but Chilton never tells you which direction to turn the regulators. That's a little bit of trial-and-error you might avoid with a little extra text and a much better drawing of a raw door.

Finally, Chilton does a disservice to folks who want to recharge their AC systems. They rightly claim that AC work needs to be done by a licensed tech, but recharging a system isn't really something you need full licensing to perform. And helpful diagnostics like adding dye to the system can really save time when it comes to doing a repair.

So, in conclusion, it's the standard for repair manuals, but the content and delivery of media has not kept up with technology and there are still some omissions of procedures and diagrammatic instructions that should never happen.

Contrary to what Kalamazoo had to say, I have BOTH the Haynes book and the Chilton book. Compared to Chilton, Haynes isn't fit to tear apart and start the kindling with. Haynes is completely worthless as far as containing useful or accurate information or diagrams. I learned more from the owner's manual and underhood diagrams (which are pitiful in the Neon, BTW) than from the Haynes book. Believe me, that is the LAST time I'll ever be suckered into wasting my money on ANYTHIng by Haynes. I honestly don't know how they can stay in business with the dreck they pawn off on the public...

If you see a part at a swap meet, auction or garage sale you want to know if it will work with your motor. This Parts Interchange Manual won't help! Take carbs, for example. This manual lists 141 interchange numbers with NO REVERSE INDEX. Want to know if you should bid on that 4671A for your six pack? Scan every one of 141 listings until you come to 4671A at number 124. Now all you know is it was stock on eight models and which ones those are. Will it work on that Mopar Performance intake you just bought? Who knows? Will it bolt onto anything other than the eight listed models? Who knows?

If someone is buying a "right", frame off restoration or trying to complete one then this book has a purpose for them. If, like me, you want to turn your stock Mopars into Stage III or Stage IV performers, this book is useless.

This is a great source of information on which parts are the original and interchangeable parts for the different product lines of the Chrysler muscle cars. This could save someone some money by asking for the same part(and cheaper) from a different model.

The book is very helpful for parts you don't have and need. It's great to look up the part I need for my Challengers and find other cars that have the exact same thing. Some of the things I have needed I have found on up to 15 different cars. I have used it faithfully since I've purchased it. The only downfall is that it isn't 100% complete. There was a few items I needed that had no listing for the interchange when there should have been. Regardless of that one problem the book is still well worth the money. Now they need a book to cover my 66 Charger.